Here's a picture of the adapter.
First part to go on is the ring. This attaches to the motor.
Next the adapter plate attaches to the motor ring. The adapter plate matches the profile of the transmission and will eventually attach to the transmission.
Next is the coupler and bushing. The bushing goes around the motor drive shaft. The coupler attaches to the bushing. Eventually the coupler will attach to the flywheel.
The flywheel is then attached to the coupler. The flywheel position had to be adjusted to within +/- 1/100th of an inch.
The clutch and clutch pressure plate are then attached. Since the original clutch had over 100,000 miles on it I went ahead and put in a new clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder for the clutch.
Now it's time to mate the transmission and the motor together. This part was a little tricky. There are seven bolt holes that need to be lined up. And the drive shaft for the transmission has to go in the splined clutch hole. And did I mention that the motor weighs about 150lb and the transmission about 100lb. So you just cant "pick em up" and "slide em together".
Here's what it looks like assembled.
The motor is supported by the transmission at one end. I needed to support it at the end not connected to the transmission.
This bracket besides supporting the motor has another very important function. It counteracts the torque produced by the motor. Without the bracket the engine would spin in place instead of the engine staying in place and spinning the transmission input drive shaft.
The final piece of the puzzle was remounting one of the output drive shafts. The vehicle is front wheel drive. The transmission has two output drive shafts. One goes to the left wheel and one to the right wheel. The one going to the right wheel is two pieces.
One of these pieces is called the intermediate drive shaft. It was originally mounted to the engine. Since the engine is no longer present I needed to fabricate a mounting point to attach the drive shaft.
Below is the drive shaft looking end on. You can see the motor on the right and the transmission all the way in the back.
Below is the mounting bracket. Not pretty but it should do the job.
Next up, reinstall the transmission and motor.
2 comments:
Great progress! Curious if the electric motor support bracket has any sort of NVH isolating material where it attached to the subframe?
Chris,
Currently no. Based on what I've read with other EV conversions it may not be necessary. The electric motors tend to cause less of a problem with noise and vibration compared to ICE engines.
If I do find this is a problem I have two choices. I could put a low profile, solid rubber gasket between the mount and the subframe. The other option is to turn the mount 180 degrees and try to connect it to the original ICE engine mount. This was mounted from above and is an NVH "friendly" mount. The disadvantage is that the subframe has to be re-attached to the chassis in before I can design an adapter between the two mounts.
Bottom line is I won't know until I run it. If I do have to modify the mount it should be relatively easy to access and not be too difficult.
Post a Comment